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Winter Nakasendo Itineraries
The Challenges vs. The Rewards
The Nakasendo in winter time presents a few new challenges for travellers and hikers alike. However for those willing to brave the cold, an almost empty winter wonderland awaits. Here we will unpack the hurdles and prepare you for one of the best times to visit the Nakasendo, winter.
The Challenges:
The Cold:
There is not getting around it, the Kiso Valley, which the Nakasendo Trail passes directly through, has long brutal winters. In southern Kiso, the temperatures tend to get down to close to -10°C in the middle of the coldest night. In the north of the valley, where the elevations are higher, temperatures can drop closer to -20°C on the coldest night of the year. Therefore having the correct gear is absolutely essential to having a good time.
Gear:
Make sure you are prepared with thermals, mid layers, down jackets (or similar), wind breakers/waterproofs, decent footwear good enough for the cold, hats, gloves, thick socks. Light crampons and maybe even snowshoes may or may not be necessary depending on the conditions on the day (Really Rural Japan guides provide their guests with light crampons for the winter trails for free). If you come unprepared, you are not going to have a good time. Simple as.
Bookings:
As the temperatures drop, so does the number of tourists. A lot of inns and shops take some much needed time off in the winter. This makes booking accommodation on the Nakasendo a little tricky at times. If you would like help with accommodation, Really Rural Japan can support guests who use their guiding service with booking the best accommodations.
The Rewards:
No Crowds:
As a local guide on the Nakasendo, one of the questions I frequently get asked in ‘What do you think the best time to visit the Nakasendo is?’. And, as someone who hikes to get away from people and noise, there is no better time to do that the winter. At the beginning of December, the crowds almost completely die down. There is no doubt that winter is the quietest time on the Nakasendo. If you want to avoid the deepest, coldest times of year, December and late February to March are nice sweet spots in the calendar.
Bookings:
Though many places close for the winter, those that do stay open tend to be more readily available even up to the last moment. Though I recommend booking in advance to avoid disappointment, in winter you can get spots at inns that are usually booked out a year in advance in spring and autumn. So for your pick of accommodation, look no further than winters.
The Views:
The Nakasendo and the Kiso Valley is a deep, mysterious, historical place. Those who are coming to soak up the sunshine, bask in the flowers and wide open vistas, don’t get me wrong, you can do that in Kiso, but that is not what this area is all about. To see this place in all its glory is to see it on its harshest day. Cold and biting, and severely beautiful. This is Kiso.
A Note on Itineraries
There are a hundred ways to combine the various hikes and day plans of the Kiso Valley and Ina Valley to make your own personalized itinerary. As a tour operator specializing in private tours, we are always happy to customize your trip to fit your needs. So please, use these itineraries as a guide but also feel free to pick out any other tours or content that interest you. Contact us and we can advise and customize to make your very own personalized trip!
Now without further ado here are my recommended itineraries:
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Most people doing a one day trip to the Nakasendo come in and out of Nagoya, Japan’s third biggest city:
Magome to Tsumago - 8km > 250m elevation gain > about 3 hours:
The most popular hike for good reason with the most stunning historical villages and great woodland hiking in between. Since the end of the pandemic, in autumn and spring, the ancient towns can get pretty crowded. Not in winter! For a one day trip in mid winter, though it is quite obvious, this has to be our top recommendation. To extend the hike you can consider starting from Ochiai Juku (+4km) or even Nakatsugawa (+8km).
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Southern Kiso Route:
Day 1: Nakatsugawa to Magome - 9km > 230m elevation gain > about 2-3 hours
Day 2: Magome to Tsumago - 8km > 250m elevation gain > about 3 hours
For a two day Nakasendo exploration in mid winter that stays close enough to civilisation to still feel safe and doesn’t get quite high enough into the mountains to get really extreme, this is the itinerary for you.
Nakasendo Plus:
Day 1: Iwamura Castle and Naegi Castle - 12km > 390m elevation gain > about 3 hours of hiking
Day 2: Magome to Tsumago - 8km > 250m elevation gain > about 3 hours
These two hikes take place in the tamer winters of the south and combine a wonderful Nakasendo hike with a much lesser known trip to two ancient castle ruins.
Classic Route:
Day 1: Magome to Tsumago - 8km > 250m elevation gain > about 3 hours
Day 2: Yabuhara to Narai - 7km > 320m elevation gain > about 3 hours
These two hikes are the most popular on the Nakasendo. However, in mid winter, the Yabuhara to Narai hike leaves the other hike in the dust in terms of cold conditions. This is only for those with the correct gear for real sub freezing hiking.
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The Gifu Nakasendo:
Day 1 & 2: Mitake to Oi - 31km > 770m elevation gain > about 8 hours of hiking
Day 3: Magome to Tsumago - 8km > 250m elevation gain > about 3 hours
For those wanting to hike in a slightly more comfortable winter climate, the Mitake to Oi hike takes place in the lower lying hills of Gifu Prefecture. This area gets you further off of the beaten track than most and the distances give you a chance to really stretch your legs.
Southern Kiso Route:
Day 1: Nakatsugawa to Magome - 9km > 230m elevation gain > about 2 hours
Day 2: Magome to Tsumago - 8km > 250m elevation gain > about 3 hours
Day 3: Tsumago (or Nagiso Station) to Nojiri - 15km (+4 if starting from Tsumago) > 600m elevation gain > about 5 hours
This route is as great for non stop town to town hiking. You need to be ready for the cold, especially on the final day.
The Frigid Route:
Day 1: Magome to Tsumago - 8km > 250m elevation gain > about 3 hours
Day 2: The Ontake Kodo - 8km > 400m elevation gain > about 4 hours
Day 3: Yabuhara to Narai (w/ Hirasawa extension) - 7km + 2km > 320m elevation gain > about 3-4 hours
This route is strictly for those prepared for freezing cold conditions. It features two extremely cold weather hikes in winter. The Ontake Kodo may have a chance to see completely frozen over waterfalls.
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Gifu and Southern Kiso Route:
Day 1: Mitake to Hosokute - 12km > 425m elevation gain > about 3 hours
Day 2: Hosokute to Oi - 19km > 340m elevation gain > about 5 hours
Day 3: Nakatsugawa to Magome - 9km > 320m elevation gain > about 3 hours
Day 4: Magome to Tsumago - 8km > 23m elevation gain > about 3 hours
Day 5: Tsumago to Nojiri - 15km > 600m elevation gain > about 5 hours
As the itineraries get longer, the hikes become deeper and further off of the beaten track. Logistically things also become harder as accommodation becomes scarce. These trips require advanced planning and a guide is highly recommended.
The Easy Going Itinerary:
Day 1: Iwamura Castle and Naegi Castle - 12km > 390m elevation gain > about 4 hours of hiking
Day 2: Nakatsugawa to Magome - 9km > 320m elevation gain > about 3 hours
Day 3: Magome to Tsumago - 8km > 230m elevation gain > about 3 hours
Day 4: Woodturning Experience and Washi Experience
Day 5: Kiso Fukushima Walking Tour - 8km > negligible elevation gain > about 2 hours of walking
For a longer hiking holiday with just enough adventure but also some culture too, this is the itinerary for you. Recommended for families especially.