Nakasendo Private Hiking Tour
Magome to Tsumago
馬籠宿 - 妻籠宿
From ¥45,000
Magome to Tsumago
Distance: 8km
Time: 3 hours
Highlights: The post towns of Magome and Tsumago, Tabata Tea House, Medaki and Odaki Waterfalls.
The hike from Magome to Tsumago is without a doubt the most popular (and for good reason) of the Nakasendo. The two post towns are magnificently preserved and the hike between them feels like a photo book of all the different landscapes that make rural Japan so beautiful. On this hike, you’ll see Edo architecture, thick forests, beautiful rivers, rice fields, mountain views, flowers, traditional crafts, and more.
Let’s start in Magome. There are free car parks at Magome Juku (Juku means post town), as well as buses that run from Nakatsugawa as well as Nagiso Station. Magome is a town on a winding road that meanders steeply up toward the mountains. It features plenty of curves, some of which were designed specially to make the area easier to defend from attackers. Compared to Tsumago Juku it feels slightly more developed, the paving on the road is new and some of the old buildings have been slickly reformed into guesthouses, coffee shops, and souvenir shops. However, it still feels old, regal, and beautiful and there are some really amazing spots if you know where to look. Try Manpuku-an Eishoji for a temple that offers lodging and temple food.
As you make your way up the hill and out of the post town you will soon find a view point. Here you can get a view of Mount Ena, the most sacred mountain of the area, and the place where Sun Goddess, Amaterasu is said to have given birth. Her placenta lies at the foot of mountain and the shrine there grants worshipers safe birth. Some people know it as the belly button of Japan.
As you travel on you will gradually get more and more rural, rice fields and farms are spotted with old country houses called kominka. Eventually you will meet the forest. The beautiful ishi-tatami are cobble stones that pave the way, many of these are left from the Edo Period. Bear bells scatter the road. On a quiet day I recommend you give them a ring. The area is known to have the occasional bear incident. Better to be on the safe side.
As you reach the crest of the mountain pass you will see Tabata Tea House. This old tea shop was created in the late 1800s. Today it is maintained by the town and offers free tea to travelers. The inside is wonderfully kept simple and traditional. With lots of artifacts such as an irori charcoal fire space, and a straw rope making machine.
Moving on with your hike it won’t be long until the male and female twin waterfalls of Odaki and Medaki appear. A lovely chance to see the clarity of the water.
As you pass through more forest you will start to see more civilization and the larger village of Otsumago will slowly warm you up for the main post town of Tsumago Juku. One of the best things about the area is its seasonal changes. The area is largely forest/farmland and flowering of the trees or the autumn leaves give this place a constant feeling of change.
As you enter Tsumago Juku you’ll see a very traditional looking scene before your eyes. The old wooden buildings look tremendously wise. The area has gone to great lengths to preserve itself. The locals are a close-knit bunch and many are still doing their shops in older age.
There are also a few newer shops selling coffee, naturally dyed goods, high fashion suits and more. The straw horse (Hanauma) is a local religious item. Every year one of these is paraded in a harvest festival to give thanks.
Penultimately, on this hiking guide I will take you as far as Nagiso Station. The walk is an extra 4km and about 1 hour on foot. It is also on the Nakasendo and completes your trip. Here you will pass my friend Tate-sans shop. He is a woodwork shokunin. If you find his shop open (which isn’t often) take a look inside. He is a master and also creates the water wheels you can see as you hike.
Last of all here a few other things you can do in Nagiso if you have some extra time. Atera and Kakizore Gorge’s are just unbelievable. The clear water here is like nothing you have ever seen! You can also cut your own soba noodles at a shared community shop. And Momosuke bridge is a beautiful old landmark where you can see the grandeur of the Kiso River.
