From ¥45,000
Private Nakasendo Hiking Tours
Located in Nagiso Town in southern Nagano, Tsumago Juku is the 42nd of 69 post towns on the Nakasendo, a road running from Tokyo to Kyoto. With hundreds of thousands, if not millions of samurai walking the ancient road, the town was full of inns and shops to deal with their demands. Almost all of the ancient towns of Japan have burned down, or simply been renovated and modernized out of existence. However, the Tera-shita region of Tsumago Juku is has gone around 230 years without a fire, and modernization left Tsumago behind as the area was so poor and decaying that the building themselves were left to rot. In the 1960s a preservation movement was born as the locals realized the precious history that stood beneath their feet. The preservation of Tsumago Juku was the first of its kind in Japan and became the model by which other ancient towns preserve themselves. What is amazing is that Tsumago’s downfall became its salvation, showing us that beauty can born in the heart of despair and that every dog will have its day.
Where to Stay in Tsumago Juku?
Before I get started, let me just say that the inns of Tsumago Juku are notoriously difficult to book. They are not on your usual English-language booking sites and some probably still use fax. Hi-tech, they are not, though they do have heated toilets. Really Rural Japan are a local eco-tourism operation and we offer private hiking tours of the Nakasendo. Feel free to contact us, we offer our customers free booking support.
Where to Stay in Tsumago Juku
Tsumago Juku (妻籠宿)
Starting at the centre of Tsumago Juku, we will then move onto to nearby surrounding areas. Inside Tsumago Juku there are still a few hatagoya, or traditional inns. They are at a similar price point and have similar facilities. Expect to pay around 10,000-15,000 JPY for an overnight with dinner and breakfast. And 6,000-8,000 without meals. I highly recommend getting meals with your accommodation in Tsumago. There aren’t any restaurants open for dinner nearby and you may end up hungry or needing a taxi. Also please note you will be sharing bathrooms with other guests pretty much wherever you go in Tsumago. Here are your options:
Daikichi (大吉) - In the southern part of Tsumago Juku is this traditional old Japanese-style inn. The owners speak great English.
Fujioto (藤乙) - A highly-rated traditional ryokan with a multi-lingual owner. Usually, two delicious meals are included in the price of your stay.
Matsuhiroya Ryokan (松代屋旅館) - A humble traditional ryokan in central Tsumago Juku.
2. O-Tsumago (大妻籠)
What you won’t know before visiting is that Tsumago Juku is only the town center. But, actually, the Tsumago area is much bigger and spread out. Here are some inns in the O-Tsumago area. They are similar in price and style to the inns of Tsumago Juku and only a few minutes away on foot. This is a picturesque rural area with some beautiful, huge, old country houses.
Tsutamuraya (つたむらや) - This guesthouse is not only incredibly beautiful but the owners have a lot of skills. They grow their own rice using a method called aigamo. In aigamo farming, ducks eat the weeds and the pests, and their poop fertilizes the field so no chemical products are necessary at all. They also turn that rice into homemade sake called dobroku.
Maruya (まるや) - Right next to Tsutamuraya is this equally beautiful traditional old guesthouse.
Hanaya (波奈屋) - In the family for eight generations, this guesthouse offers two meals (optional) and a traditional place to stay.
3. Nagiso Town (南木曽町)
Tsumago is just a small area in Nagiso Town. If you broaden your search to include the town, you’ll find a few more options with a bit more variation. Most offer free pick-ups and drops-offs at Tsumago Juku so don’t worry too much about getting there.
Takimi Onsen (滝見温泉) - This quiet little inn deep in the mountains boasts natural hot springs and only receives one group at a time. The food however is the star of the show and, if you can get it, this is a real treat for anyone wanting an authentic Japanese experience. Highly recommended.
Hostel Yuian (ホステル結い庵) - This is a picturesque hostel deep in the mountains with a beautiful bar/restaurant. The owners are a young family and they did a fantastic job renovating this huge old country house.
Fukinomori (吹の森) - A mountainous hot spring ryokan about 15 minutes from Tsumago. Pick ups are available. There is a private hot spring bath which needs to be reserved in advance.
Taoya Hotel Kisoji (ホテル木曾路) - A short drive from Tsumago Juku is this larger hotel. For those wanting buffet food, large outdoor hot springs, and a more impersonal break, this is a great spot!
ties Camp Ground - A glamping site opened in 2023. Located on the Nakasendo between Tsumago and Nojiri. The social area is a renovated 150 year old house.
MOUNTAinn - Right in front of Nagiso Station sits MOUNTainn. A beautifully designed renovated house which is available as a private rental property.
Zenagi - For an expensive splurge the converted ancient farmhouse come guesthouse of Zenagi offers tailor-made full-board, adventure-based activity plans with luxurious food and more. It’s in a beautiful village called Tadachi. And it is pricey! But very luxurious!
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