In rural Gifu Prefecture, Iwamura Castle and Naegi Castle were both important fortresses during the Edo period (1603-1867). Both castles have now ceased to exist. Both deconstructed manually during the Meiji Restoration. So why visit a castle if no castle exists? Well, each has its draws, but the castles are really just goals on a map. The real fun of the day comes from the stunning views and exploring the beautiful, historical, countryside. Iwamura is a historical castle town with lots of stunning architecture left over from the Edo period. Shops and restaurants line the streets and the atmosphere is something out fairytale. The hike up to the castle is beautiful and the stone foundations are impressive with great views over the Iwamura Basin. Naegi Castle’s main alure are the views from the top and the stone foundation which have been jovially dubbed locally, the Macchu Pichu of Japan. It has incredible panoramic views over Nakatsugawa, the Nakasendo and the sacred Mount Ena. Each castle has a brutal history and mythical stories to go with it.

This is a chance to explore two castles ruins in one day. Neither places have much or any foreign tourism, so it is a chance to see something different. Other group walking tour operators that book tours on the Nakasendo from afar often have people walk between Ena and Nakatsugawa on the Nakasendo. This is a rather featureless walk without much of interest. We do not offer this. Through living local we are able to research and more deeply understand the areas charm. This makes a great addition to a Nakasendo long trip, or a fun standalone day trip for those wanting to get off the beaten path.

The Morning:

In the morning you will meet your guide at Ena Station or your guide will pick you up from your accommodation if you are staying in town. From there you catch the morning train from Ena Station to Iwamura Station. This train line is known as the Akechi Railroad and it is extremely rural. Most trains are made up of a single carriage. When we arrive it is time to hike. We will head through the castle town while it is quiet in the morning and in 1 hour we will reach the top of the mountain ruins. This is a steep climb so be prepared. Iwamura Castle was the castle with the highest elevation in all of Japan during the Edo period.

Lunch:

After taking photos and enjoying the views we will come back down. Now the shops in the town are open and it is time for lunch. Your guide will choose a good local restaurant to sample the regional cuisine. There are Japanese sweet and cake shops aplenty and a sake brewery too. Please let us know if you have any dietary requirements or requests.

The Afternoon:

It is now time to head to Nakatsugawa on the trains. It will take about 50 minutes or so. When you arrive, hike two of the day begins. The hike to Naegi Castle is a little bit longer but with less elevation gain. Expect it to take about 1 hour again. And slightly less on the way back down. If time and energy are in short supply, the hike to Naegi Castle may be replaced with a tour of Nakatsugawa, a historical post town on the Nakasendo with lots of back alleys and interesting sights to see, including a sake brewery and Japanese sweet shops.

Overall this is very off-the-beaten track kind of day, giving the guests a rare insights into places mostly overlooked by foreign tourists but admired greatly by the Japanese.