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Private Nakasendo Hiking Tours

Three Things to do in Kiso Fukushima

Both the central point of the Kiso Valley and the central point of the Nakasendo, Kiso Fukushima is a little bit bigger than its surrounding post towns. It was a place of great commerce and it had one of the four largest seki-sho (checkpoints) in Japan. It was home to the Yamamura family who governed the Kiso Valley. For a series of reasons this town was often stayed in longer than others. There are more ryokan and minshuku here to accommodate these guests. And even today travelers on the Nakasendo may choose to take a rest here as there is plenty to see and do.

  1. The Seki-sho

Kiso Fukushima had one of the four largest checkpoints in all of Japan. This facility may surprise you in its purpose. It did all of the normal things a checkpoint normally would do. It searched for contraband such as guns, it made sure that only people with official permission could travel, but it is also took a particular interest in women. Why women? In the Edo Period women were often moved around against their will and used as strategic hostages to forge alliances. Wives of Daimyo were very often taken away from their families and moved to the capital of Edo for this exact purpose. They were known to get homesick, take disguise and try and sneak their way back home. Some would disguise themselves as common poor folk, others would even dress in men’s clothes in an attempt to avoid detection. The seki-sho would have specialists whose job it was to detect these escaping women of noble stock. There was even a special room for genitalia inspection. That sounds like a bad joke a younger, more foolish me would have once said.

Today you can visit Seki-sho museum. The original building was destroyed in the Meiji Restoration as the country tried to rid itself of traces of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Now there is a replica gate at the front and inside the museum you can see all kind of weapons on display here. Some look absolutely vicious, covered in spikes and blades, but their main job was to pin people down forcibly and maybe also to intimidate. There are also a lot of old guns on display.

2. Yamamura Residence

The Yamamura family governed Kiso during the Edo Period. They were awarded this honor thanks to their loyalty to the Tokugawa clan in the battle of Sekigahara. Their role as magistrate here was typically one that changed personage every few years, but the Yamamura family were allowed to keep their positions here for a full 274 years. They also oversaw the seki-sho. The residence they had was enormous! It was used to wine and dine the Daimyo travelling on the Sankin-Koutai (a bi-annual trip to Edo to show loyalty to the Shogun). Now only a fraction is left. But it is lovingly cared for and full of fantastic monuments. The manager, Mr. Kawamura is known to show guests around when the place is not too busy. Two things stand out to me as particularly interesting.

①     They display food that would have been eaten with the Daimyo on their trip. It features fresh seafood heavily. Now we are far away from the sea here in the narrow Kiso Valley of central Japan. It would have taken about a week to walk here from the nearest coast. But to keep the food fresh it was delivered in 30 hours. How is that possible? The job of delivering seafood to Kiso-Fukushima was actually taken on by many delivery people. They would run as fast as they could in small sections, then pass the goods on to the next runner who do the same. This seafood relay must have been expensive. But that was the whole point of the Sankin-Koutai, to spend excess money to keep everyone poor enough that they couldn’t revolt.

②    A mummified fox. Enshrined in the Yamamura Residence is a mummied fox. It’s real and the mummified body has been enshrined here for nearly 200 years. The fox is said to have come down to the town every morning and sung. The locals would learn that a loud song would bring good fortune for the day. But a quiet song spelled trouble for the town. Foxes hold a special place in Shinto mythology. This is really a rare sight to behold.

3. Kozenji Temple

This temple is among the top three most important temples in the Kiso Valley and actually has largest Zen Stone Garden in Japan. For a small fee you can walk inside to see the garden and also a museum full of wonderful artifacts.

Tickets

The Seki-sho, Yamamura Residence and Kozenji Temple all have individual entrance fees, but the cheapest way to see them all is to buy a ticket for all three costing 900 yen.

There are still other things to see and do in Kiso Fukushima including seeing Fukushima-Juku post town which is very well restored. Also, you could visit sake breweries here. One of which sometimes offers tours of the facility if booked in advance. It is also the perfect place to try takigyo (滝行) or Shinto waterfall meditation.

  1. Full-Day or Half-Day Walking Tour - Enjoy one of Really Rural Japan’s full day or half day walking tours of Kiso Fukushima and learn all about the history, culture and nature of the town.

  2. Fukushima Sekisho Museum - 300 JPY - Kiso Fukushima had one of the four largest checkpoints in all of Japan. It did all of the normal things a checkpoint normally would do. It searched for contraband such as guns, it made sure that only people with official permission could travel, but it is also took a particular interest in women. Why women? In the Edo Period wives, mothers, and daughters of Daimyo were often moved around against their will and used as strategic hostages to forge alliances. They were known to get homesick, take disguise and try and sneak their way back home. Some would disguise themselves as common poor folk, others would even dress in men’s clothes in an attempt to avoid detection.

  3. Yamamura Residence - 300 JPY - The Yamamura family governed Kiso during the Edo Period. They were awarded this honor thanks to their loyalty to the Tokugawa clan in the battle of Sekigahara. Their role as magistrate here was typically one that changed personage every few years, but the Yamamura family were allowed to keep their positions here for a full 274 years. They also oversaw the seki-sho. Nowadays you can look around the small area of the residence that remains. Of particular interest is the real mummified fox that you can see on request.

  4. Try Local Sake - 1,000 JPY - The Kiso region is known for its delicious sake. One store in Kiso Fukushima, Nakanorisan offers a 1,000 JPY tasting course with three varieties to try. It is very good value and very good sake!

  5. Kozenji Temple and Stone Garden - 500 JPY. Said to be the largest zen stone garden in all of Japan, the Central Alps in the background is no mistake. This is how the Japanese made their gardens, with the bigger picture in mind.

  6. Hike from Yabuhara to Narai - A quick 15 minute train ride to Yabuhara and you can begin to hike the Torii Pass. This gorgeous mountain hike ends in the stunning post town of Narai. Guided tours are available.

  7. Climb Mount Ontake - Mount Ontake (3,067m) is one of the most sacred mountain in Japan. So much so, that it has its own religious faith called Ontake-kyo. It is the second biggest volcano in Japan, only after Mount Fuji, and the views are stunning!

  8. Hike the Ontake Kodo - The ancient pilgrimage route on the way to climb Mount Ontake is absolutely stunning. Huge waterfalls which are used for takigyo, or Japanese waterfall meditation can be found along the route, along with thousands of ancient stone monuments.

  9. Stay in a Hot Spring Ryokan - The town of Kiso-Fukushima is rare. Most towns along the Nakasendo did not have natural hot springs. So when in town, please consider an onsen ryokan. Some inns even have rooms with private onsen baths.

  10. Nezame-no-toko Gorge - A ten minute train ride from Kiso-Fukushima takes you to Agematsu. From there it is a 20 minute walk to one of the most famous icons of the Kiso region, Nezame-no-toko. This beautiful gorge is home to the story of Urashima Taro, the man who lived with dragons under the sea.

  11. Akasawa Forest - Open from May to October each year, the Akasawa Forest is the birthplace of Shin-rin-yoku or Japanese forest bathing. There are several hiking courses. It can be accessed by bus from Agematsu Station.