The Seinaiji Kaido is an ancient road developed in the early 1500s by local samurai for military conquests. It connected the Nakasendo in Tsumago Juku with the southern end of the Ina Valley. As the Edo period (1603-1867) began and Japan became relatively stable and peaceful, the Seinaiji Kaido was used by all kinds of people, from local peasants transporting to goods to government officials and pilgrims too-ing and fro-ing around the country. Hiking on the Nakasendo is an exploration of one of the most important roads in Japan during the Edo period. Hiking on the Seinaiji Kaido is akin to hiking on a more minor artery of the country. On the Nakasendo you can feel the life of the Daimyo, the Princess or the Magistrate. On the Seinaiji Kaido you can feel the life of the farmer, the peasant, or the broke pilgrim traveling for travels sake.

The hike starts in the small mountain village of Shimo-Seinaiji, a village tucked inside a deep valley famous for its handmade firework festival. When hiking the Seinaiji Kaido it is recommended that you stay at Hirugami Onsen and take a taxi to the start of the hike. Hirugami Onsen is a mountain town full of luxurious traditional hot spring resorts. Located in Achi Village, which is ranked number 1 in Japan for starry nights, Hirugami Onsen provides starry night guided tours, some of which are free, some of which are charged. It is also famous for its springtime peach blossoms and it’s morning markets from 6:00-8:00. A taxi to the trailhead will likely cost around 3,000-4,000 JPY.

After a small look around the small village of Shimo-Seinaiji the hike heads off into the woodlands. There are Buddhist stone relics scattered along the hike reminding you of the history of the road you are traversing. The path emerges at the top of the Nashino Pass with amazing views looking out over the Ina Valley and Souther Alps on a clear day. Here a locally prepared bento lunch can be enjoyed before the descent of the hike. From here the hike goes down into the Ina Valley passing by ancient road markers and onto a road you could never hope to find by yourself.The hike ends in the Ina Valley where a bus can be caught back to Hirugami Onsen, or, if preferred, a taxi can be called.

This hike is very secretive and very few people, Japanese included, are aware of its existence. This hike is for anyone who loves quiet woodland hikes and exploring places that have yet to be thoroughly explored. During the trip, I will provide hot drinks and snacks and you can even try on my own handmade waraji (traditional Japanese straw sandals), which I specialize in making.