Before the Nakasendo existed, there was the Kisoji, otherwise known as the Kiso Kodo. This ancient road was narrower than the Nakasendo and went much higher up into the mountains of the Kiso Valley. It didn’t cross the Kiso River which was wild, rapid and deadly, instead it meandered up to where the streams were small and much easier to cross. On this hiking tour, we will explore one section of the Kiso Kodo in the central Kiso Valley, from Agematsu to Kuramoto Station. This section is completely off of the beaten track. We at Really Rural Japan are pioneering this tour, so we very much doubt that you won’t see it on anyone else’s tour itinerary.

The Kiso Kodo starts in Agematsu and for a brief time follows the Nakasendo to a place called Nezame-no-toko Gorge. It would be a crime to come here and not take a look at one of the most beautiful places in the Kiso Valley. The mysterious squared-off, box-shaped rocks of Nezame-no-toko and legend of Urashima Taro, make this place rather special indeed. Following Nezame-no-toko, the climb begins. First of all through the rice fields and gorgeous agricultural land of Agematsu, with its holy mountain, Mount Kazakoshi, sitting in the backdrop. After that the hike enters the forest. With not a soul around, this is a very nature rich environment! Compared to much of the Nakasendo, sections of this hike are quite narrow and steep and need cardio fitness and balance to complete. So be careful when choosing this hike.

The hike peaks out at 1,128m and then starts to descend. The final highlight of the hike is Tono-no-Amidado, a Buddhist place of worship said to be the oldest standing building in the Kiso area. The tiny hamlet of huge, ancient country homes that surround Tono-no-Amidado make this place a real time-slip.Then the descending begins and after a 500m+ drop in elevation, the hike finishes down in the valley below. The last two kilometres along the road take you to the tiny quiet station of Kuramoto and the end of the hike.

During the trip, I will provide hot drinks, and snacks and you can even try on my own handmade waraji (traditional Japanese straw sandals), which I specialize in making.