Ryokan & Accommodation
There are literally hundreds of places to stay in Hakone. Honestly, there is a flabbergasting amount. So rather than even attempting to list some of them, I will instead tell you the best way to choose them and enjoy them.
Ryokan vs. Guest House
First let’s work out what the difference is. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese Inn often found in hot spring towns. They come in all sizes and prices. From family run inns to huge complexes. But they usually are closer to the high end than the low end of the spectrum. Expect to pay from 12,000 JPY and upwards. Sometimes way upwards.
They typically have tatami floors and futons, a hot spring bath (sometimes in your room) and artistically thought out Kaiseki dinners. Having dinner and breakfast is the most typical plan for a ryokan. However it is becoming more common to be able to skip the evening meal. My advice would be this: when in Japan, stay in a ryokan at least once as a minimum. And get dinner too. It is a side of the culture that you shouldn’t leave without trying.
A guesthouse is … well … a guesthouse. Of course they come in all shapes and sizes too. And Japan is particularly good at the capsule hotel. Far from the dystopian test tube beds you might imagine, they are more similar to stylish hostel dormitories with curtains that allow you your own private space.
How to choose?
Now that we know the difference, it is up to you to decide on your budget. Skies the limit with ryokan and you can stay in some stunning places if you can afford it. Look at Gora Kadan for example which can cost over 100,000 JPY per night. This is where the imperial family stay if they visit Hakone. Alternatively you could go on the budget end. For example K’s House Hostel offers backpackers prices with the onsen experience attached from 3,300 JPY per night. Something in the mid range such as Masutomi Ryokan or Mount View Ryokan would give you a taste of the luxury for a night or two.
Location
Another important component to think about is location:
The Hakone Yumoto is the town with the main train and bus station. It is the easiest place to stay considering your luggage. It also gives you plenty of options for food and drink. And is a great place to start your adventures from with connections all over Hakone.
The lakeside towns of Moto Hakone and Hakone Machi give you lovely views and restaurants compact into a small town. Here you can enjoy the iconic views of Mount Fuji sitting above Lake Ashi. It is also quite well connected to the rest of Hakone.
Sengokuhara and Miyagino are the best places to stay if you would like to go hiking. Connections are not the most nor the least convenient and while there are some restaurants, it does get quieter here.
The onsen town of Gora is full of hot spring hotels and restaurants. It is well connected and a good spot to visit museums and galleries.
There are loads of places that I haven’t mentioned here. And while most places will be fine, my one tip would be to make sure that wherever you stay doesn’t limit what you can do the next day in terms of transportation.